Photograph: Bukharan Jewess.

Bukharian Jews

Turkestan Krai, Samarkand Oblast, city Samarkand

1902

Gelatin silver printing with chemical development (DOP)

17 x 11,4

РЭМ 49-25/2

The woman is wearing a jacket, with a “durra” kerchief and a “rumoli pulakchi” headscarf on her head. Durra, the under kerchief, was a small headscarf folded diagonally, or a triangular piece of some silk or brocade fabric, which was tied in a knot on the back of the head covering the forehead. It was also used as an over kerchief, which was put upon a larger headscarf. Also typical for Bukharan Jewesses was “rumoli pulakchi,” a triangular headscarf of fine cotton net with sewn-on silver-colored metal disks. A bride put on such kerchief for the first time under the wedding chupa canopy. When married, a woman was allowed to wear a rumoli pulakchi with an under-kerchief as festive headgear.