Men's robe

Tajik

city Bukhara

late 19th century

Calico, cotton textile, braid, semi silk

length 142.0

РЭМ 59-1

In Central Asia, the robe was a traditional men's outerwear. It was typically worn as a two-piece ensemble, with the lower robe belted. The outer robe clearly indicated the wearer's social and economic status. Wealthy men purchased outer robes made of mixed-silk and silk fabrics. This robe is made of a mixed-silk fabric called "bekasab" with a striped pattern. "Bekasab" had a silk warp and a cotton weft. The warp threads were made from fine silk yarn, unwound from 8-10 cocoons, dyed in various colors. The weft threads were thicker than the warp threads. This type of fabric had several varieties, but all shared a characteristic moiré effect. "Bekasab" was made in Bukhara, Samarkand, Khojent, Kokand, Margilan, and Namangan. Men's robes were decorated with flaps that were visible when the hem fluttered as the wearer walked. Therefore, they were made from expensive fabrics, most often from semi-silk “adras” with an “abrov” pattern.

Costume