Men's robe

Uzbek

Emirate of Bukhara, city Shahrisyabz

1860-1870

Semi silk, silk threads

length 132.0; width 53.5; length of sleeve 81.0

РЭМ 8762-20501

Museum of the Peoples of the USSR

A men's ceremonial robe. This robe is embroidered entirely with a counted stitch, "iroki," leaving no gaps in the background. Silk threads were laid across the base of the ornamental design, then attached to the decorated base with tightly spaced diagonal stitches. The resulting embroidery took on the appearance of a rich fabric with a beautiful floral pattern. Dying silk threads in skeins intended for embroidery was practiced by Central Asian Jews in the cities. The robe was displayed at the Anthropological Exhibition of 1879 (Moscow), in the section dedicated to the traditional culture of the people of the lowland oases of Central Asia – the Uzbeks and Tajiks. These robes were considered ceremonial; they were crafted by male embroiderers in palace workshops. The emirs of Bukhara included these luxurious garments as diplomatic gifts to the courts of European rulers.

Costume